E-mail me your questions about tower installation

If you have photos of your tower installation project and would like to share them, please attach .jpg or .gif files with your e-mail. If you cannot convert your files to .jpg or .gif, send them anyway and I will convert them.

Bart,

Thank you for writing the nice article on tower construction for QST! I thought I would give you some feedback as I just completed a project with some different conditions. I will be brief, and I'm sending this by mail so you will not have concern over virus by e-mail in attachments.

My [remote home] QTH is a few miles from a small city in East Central Texas and not subject to restrictions or code considerations but I did not allow that to be an excuse for compromise of good engineering practice.

My sweetie selected a site about 150 feet from the spare room in the house where I have my shack. It is somewhat obscured by trees and close to the rock driveway leading to the house. Although we have almost 30 acres, most of the area is with trees and other natural habitat. I wanted to avoid using guys so as to avoid wear on the guys and the installer-maintainer used a bolt-together tower material because that is what I had as opposed to a crank-up that was at the previous location.

The foundation was built using a backhoe to dig into red clay soil 5-1/2 feet with the sides at 6 by 6 feet. I formed the perimeter with Zx6 and laced the hole with sand under the base,4-5 foot pieces of Rohn 45 [completely covered] at the corners and a 7/8-inch rebar matrix is laced through the tower sections in two directions and tied appropriately. I contracted for a local Transit Mix outfit to deliver, pour, poke & level a 5-Sack mix. We emptied a 10-yard truck for the 2 large bases.

All four sides of the base have 8 foot ground rods with 1-1/2 inch copper strap leading to a one-foot wide copper sheet that emerges from a stainless NEMA box wherein I have disconnects for the lead-ins and Polyphaser devices for 3 coax lines and an 8 wire one for the rotor control. Low HF is fed with 9913, high HF is fed with % inch Heliax and VHF/UHF is fed with 7/8 inch Heliax from the shack to the base. All of that run is in conduit, 2/3 of it is underground,

To make the tower really strong and within Rohn design, I chose to place series 55 next to series 45 and bolt them together to provide mutual support similar to a bracketed installation. The 55 rises 55 feet and the 45 rises 4S feet. A 20-foot mast is planted in a rotator that is 4 feet below a bearing equipped top plate. The LP is 3 feet above the plate. Thirteen feet above the LP is a pointed top to aid in providing an 'umbrella' field for lightning protection. The mast has two one inch copper braid sections tied to the tower for lightning path bypass of the rotor.

I did not like the idea of using a gin pole for the project, much less for the Rohn 55 [100 pounds a section] so I made a place on level ground where I could use supports on which I assembled the tower sections, added the plates, rotor, coax, feed line and rope to manage the raising of the big dipole. A nearby rancher does a little 'bucket truck" work for a reasonable fee. It is a monster with 4 outriggers and a 50+ foot boom. His rigging experience and light touch took up the 55, 45, and two similarly built 40 foot pieces of Rohn 25 for the other end of the dipoles and a single 40 foot piece of Rohn 25 for the house-bracketed TVRO antenna. We then took up the LPt bolting it in place by holding it in place and sliding the u-bolts across and finally the TV antenna. With all of the preassembly done, all the bases having 10 foot sections firmly planted in 30 day old concrete, and with his skill we were done in two hours and fifteen minutes!

My choice of antenna was a Log Periodic for the high end of HF and a broadband folded dipole for SWL & 60 meters to supplement the tree supported long windoms I use on the HF. The LP does not like anything resembling a resonant guy under it. I also wanted to place VHf/UHF verticals favoring the North that would not bother the beam so I placed the 6-foot collinear array atop the 45, effectively side mounting away from the flat side of the 55 ten feet below the top.

The site with the double Rohn 25 is along the 's-curved' driveway over which the dipole is placed. Its base is similar to the main one except it is 4 feet square and 4-1/2 feet deep. Two 8 foot ground rods ground this combination and another pair of them are at the 2x2x4 foot base of the bracketed tower with a Polyphaser on the RG-6 line for the TV. The rotor for the TV is an old [vintage '64] Ham-M I rebuilt and placed at the 5-foot level with 40 feet of TV mast up the center of the tower to support and rotate the antenna.

One mistake I made was to not plant fence posts at the corners in the concrete base to facilitate installing a wire fence to deter climbing. I have installed chain-link wire with padlocks and am considering Rohn's anti-climb panels even though we have had no trespassers that I know of in 5 years. You never know when one of the grandkids might get curious though.

We both, it seems, have arrived at the same point at about the same time with excellent onthe-air results. Planning and patience pays. I'm confident the installation would pass inspection in the l)allas area [our second home]. The nearest aboveground electric utility lines are 300+ feet away and the 3KV transformer is 800 feet away. I have no worries about mechanical contact with utilities and my man-made QRN factor is S-Zero.

73 de bill, W5VSD

Hi Bill,

Thank you for your letter of June 23. I enjoyed reading it and seeing the pictures. Living in Southern California, even the average half-million-dollar home is built on a postage stamp size lot, so few people have the space for an installation like yours.

My hole had to be dug by hand because the smallest machinery could not fit in the space between my house and my neighbor’s. Additionally, there were some concerns about having the equipment and, in fact the hole, in close proximity to the swimming pool. I am impressed by the fact that you have a friend with a bucket truck and rigging expertise. I guess that is one of the benefits of living in the country.

At my old QTH I had to protect the tower from kids. The yard was not fenced in the area of the tower and I had both my own kids and others in the neighborhood to worry about. I was not about to pay the $350 that US Tower wanted for steel panels. I solved the problem cheaply with three 8-foot sections of plywood that I joined together with hinges along two joints. I installed a hasp and padlock at the third. I painted it to protect it from termites (a big problem here) and the elements. It just sat on the ground forming a triangular box surrounding the tower. It cost about $25 for materials in the 1980’s and it did the job very well.

73,

Bart, WB6WUW

The use of plywood is an excellent idea! My temporary fix was the wire fence material with locks you see in the pictures. With the 55 & 45 bolted together the result is four sides so prudent fitting in the manner you used might work well. I still may, however, put a 6 foot fence around the base, 8 feet on a side, with a locked gate. On another occasion, I will take a pix of the inside of the box with better detail of grounding and a better pix of what is on top when I have the verticals on the shorter section under the LP.

73 de Bill, W5VSD

Hello again, the last Pix I promised - shows the 144/450 vertical on the shorter (45) sections and the box with disconnect switches & Polyphasers for HF1, HF2, V/UHF, and 8-line one for rotor control. I used 9913, 1/2" Heliax and 7/8" Heliax on the appropriate frequencies. They exit at the connectors of Polyphasers that are mounted to the copper/bulkhead on the bottom of the stainless NEMA box. The most physically demanding part of the job was putting all that cable in a 4" conduit, above ground thru the trees, then underground to the house another 100 feet away. The 3rd picture is the top of the double 25 that supports the other end of the "all band-frequency agile" folded dipole at 45 feet. OK, the last one is superfulous and it and the text need not be included on your site. It is the single bracketed 25 with the TV antenna at 40 feet. Note the mast has a fuzzball on top and it descends to about eye level where the Ham-M turns the 1-1/4" mast. The mast is grounded again to the tower with two 1" flat tinned copper braids. I used a polyphaser at the bottom with "N" connectors for the TV feedline & grounded it to the ground straps taking the tower to a pair of 8 foot copper
plated rods outside the perimeter of the 2 foot square, 4 foot deep base.

73 de Bill, W5VSD

----Original Message-----
From: W1WJG@aol.com [mailto:W1WJG@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 11:04 AM
To: undisclosed-recipients:
Subject: Rotator

My tower is already installed and is composed of 3 10-foot sections each weighing 35 LB for a total of 105 lb. It is mounted on a hinge and can be easily raised and lowered with the winch that I already installed. I plan to use a 26.5 LB Cushcraft MA 5B Beam (Max wind surface area is 3.22 sq-ft) with a Hy-Gain CD-45 II. Where do you recommend placing the Rotator and Max length of steel mast? Is it possible to also mount a TV Antenna just above the top of the tower?

In a message dated 6/19/03 9:23:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bart@wb6wuw.us writes:

Hello again Bart:
Thanks very much for your reply. It is very helpful to me.

-----Original Message-----
From: Christian von Wechmar [mailto:christian@owf.co.za]
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 7:12 AM
To: bart@wb6wuw.us
Subject: FB QST Article

Hi Bart,

Great article in QST. I checked out your website too. My 40 foot crank-up tower is lying next to my house, waiting to be put up. Your article has given me new courage, and many useful hints!

Hi Chris,

Thank you for your kind words. Believe it or not, I have not seen the July issue of QST yet. I have only seen the galley proofs of my article. Since they send QST by 4th class mail, California receives QST after the rest of the country. What is your QTH? Can you please tell me what pages they put it on and when you received it.

When you install your tower, could you please take lots of pictures and send me some? I would like to develop my website into a general resource with information from several tower installation projects from around the country. If you have any questions as you proceed, feel free to contact me and I will give you any aid I can.

73,
Bart, WB6WUW

Hi again Bart,

My QTH is Stellenbosch, near Cape Town, in South Africa! Glad to see that the international mail is faster than the local US mail HI.

Your article spans pages 33 to 37. I got my QST on Friday, 20 June.

I'll take lots of pics when I put it up. BTW, I voted for your article.

Good luck, and 73 de Chris ZS1DX

I want to thank for your article on QST. I have a crank-up tower lying on the garden floor, guess that it was an article like yours I was waiting for!

My tower is self supporting and consists of two sections, 26 feet each, with a hinged base. I'd like to know some more details about the foundation and rebar cage in order to compare with mine. What are the diameters of the steel used on the rebar cage? How many horizontal and vertical sections comprise the cage?

Without pulling out the file, I do not remember the rebar diameter. As I recall, the specifications are four vertical on each of the four faces of the rectangle and one horizontal member spaced 6 inches apart with 4 inch spacing between the top and bottom most members. The length of all sides was such that there is a 6 inch clearance between the cage and the vertical faces of the hole and 4 inches between the bottom and top of the concrete. You should not use this as a specification for your footing however, since you have a different tower design. You must go according to the tower manufacturer's recommendations and your local building code to ensure safety.

I thoroughly enjoyed your article in the July issue of QST. I have the "base" poured and ready for a US Tower TMM-433SS later this summer. Would you please clarify a couple of terms you used in your article for me; "drift pin" and "ground rod box?" I am not familiar with these two terms!

Additionally, being in Florida, I am interested in a "quick disconnect" method at the tower base to isolate the RG-213 running from the antenna into the shack some 125' away -- my concern is lightning strikes!

Thank you for your e-mail. If you liked my article, please vote in the monthly QST contest at http://www.arrl.org/members-only/qstvote.html?pidx=0.

A "drift pin" or "bull pin" is basically a tapered steel rod that you jam into an adjacent hole set to force the holes through which you need to place a bolt into alignment.

I used the term "ground rod box" to describe an area surrounded by concrete where you can drive ground rods. As I mentioned in the article, the tower footing is part of an extension to my pool deck. Since the concert deck now goes right up to the house, it was necessary to have an area on the outside wall of the house directly opposite the placement of the rig for the station and tower ground. This allows ground strap from my rig to the ground to be under 6 feet. The tower's center is about 2 feet from the ground box and it is grounded with a 2 1/2 foot length of number 2 welding cable.

As far as lightning protection goes, I am not an expert on that subject. We seldom have lightning in Orange County, California, so the only protection I really need is the arrester built into my tuner. On the few occasions we have static activity, I disconnect the coax as a precaution, but I am not aware of anyone in the area who has ever suffered damage.

As far as quick disconnects go, I have a quick disconnect PL259 that I use to connect my 2 meter HT to an outside antenna. The trade off is that is a little more inefficient then the standard screw on type. In any case, I would talk to your local hams about lightning issues since they probably have experience.

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry R. Ragland [mailto:ragland@teleport.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 5:34 PM
To: bart@wb6wuw.us
Subject: QST Article, ISO 9000

I appreciated your article in the July QST. Good job. I have one question. In Figure 7, is the gray line running from the top of the gin pole to the bottom left corner of the photo the rope used to pull the antenna to the top of the tower? If so, my suggestion would be to first run this rope to a block very near the base of the tower. Then, the tower tension load is nearly straight down, instead of putting a horizontal load component at the top of the gin pole.

Thank you for the e-mail. You are correct. The line is going through the pulley. On the left and out of the picture, someone is holding the rope that is supporting the beam.

I agree whole heartedly with your suggestion about running the rope down the tower.

I just finished reading your article in QST on tower/antenna. I am in the process of re-installing my tower/antenna at my new QTH. Am always looking for time-saving methods for doing things like this.

Very good article, but I felt you missed two important steps. There was no mention of the leveling nuts under the tower baseplate. On my first installation, I did not install these little items, which makes for a real leveling pain. There was know mention of leveling the tower at all. Its very important that the tower is not leaning after its erected. There was also know mention of aligning the rotor with the thrust bearing. This is also very important. Im still trying to find a simple way, short of shims of doing this.

On past installations I have made every mistake possible. If I had your article in the past I would have made way fewer mistakes. This installation I'm doing now, US Tower has changed the specs. on the hole & cage. I have the TX-455 tower. It now requires a 5X5X6 ft. hole, and about a 300# rebar cage. A backhoe did this in about 30 minutes. The backhoe operator was not real careful and the sides were not straight. Instead of 6 yards of cement, it took almost 8 yards. I had ordered 7 yards. The driver was very quick at getting me another yard at about three times the cost of the other 7 yards.

I rented a cement vibrator for $50. It really was worth it. You never realize how much air is trapped in the cement during the pour.

Again your article was very good and would save a lot of time and mistakes for a first-timer. I got my ticket in 1954. Am still in the learning process.

Thank you for your e-mail. A "drift pin" or "bull pin" is basically a tapered steel rod that you jam

into an adjacent hole set to force the holes through which you need to place a bolt into alignment.

UNDERSTOOD. THE CONTRACTOR DID NOT GET MY BOLTS TOTALLY VERTICAL SO I WILL PROBABLY NEED A LITTLE LEVERAGE IN ORDER TO SLIP THE TOWER BASE ON THE BOLTS!

NEVER THOUGHT OF WELDING CABLE. I WAS PLANNING TO RUN A COUPLE OF COPPER STRAPS TO 1" COPPER PIPES 8' IN THE GROUND.

I HAVE BEEN TO ORANGE COUNTY MANY TIMES DURING MY CORPORATE YEARS OF NATIONAL TRAVEL! THE ONLY WAY TO TRULY PREVENT LIGHTING FROM ANTENNA TO COAX TO RIG IS TO DISCONNECT THE COAX! I AM LOOKING FOR OR WILL FABRICATE A PLASTIC BOX TO USE AS A DISCONNECT POINT IN THE CABLE RUN. YOU ARE EXACTLY RIGHT, THE CONNECTION DOES COST YOU SOME EFFICIENCY IN POWER.

If the hyperlink doesn't work, go to the ARRL Members Only Page. There is a hyperlink just above the buff colored FAQ section, "Vote for the best July 2003 or June 2003 QST story!"

I wouldn't have thought of the welding cable myself if I had not worked for a company that made welding robots at the time. The welding cable I use is rated for 8 KW. Only a direct or near direct hit could cause it to open. In addition, it is copper stranded so it is flexible and the insulation is a thick rubber like material, so it handles the environment very well.

-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Cordich [mailto:wb6lpn@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 10:59 AM
To: bart@wb6wuw.us
Subject: your QST article

I read your article on tower and antenna installation and found it very interesting although as a old ham with a "do it yourself " mentality I found a few things I might reflect on. I have installed 6 tower and antenna installations in 2 states so I do have some practical experience.

First if you are not aware, US Tower and its former company names ( Tristao, and Palmer ) have, since the 1960's offered on loan or for sale, tower raising fixtures and dollys so the need to make or use home made devises is not needed. It also precludes the need for more than two people to do an entire install.

Second, the antenna , rotor, mast, coax and all items can be installed from ground level and as a matter of fact US Tower does not endorse or encourage the climbing their towers for any reason. If anything they highly discourage the climbing of their towers. All raising and lowering fixtures can be rented or bought at any time.

Third item of interest or info is the respective building departments have soil information and the need for a civil engineer is fine if you want to spend extra money but the building departments will usually tell you what is needed for hole size and cement configuration as needed for the soil content in their particular area.

As an added point, most professional builders that I have worked with will not weld the basket but will instead wire it together. I am not sure why but am told it is more permanent as a weld could separate.

The last comment I have is one I am in total agreement with you on and that is the waiting of a period of time before installing the antenna or coax as I have had the same experience and was smiling when I informed and was able to show the complainant that there was nothing connected from the tower to the radio. That advise was given to me in the 1960's by another ham who seemed to know that people will complain for no true reason.

Nice article and if you were not aware of the items and info I am sending - this is what ham radio is about - and that is sharing information with each other.

Thank you for your e-mail. Since your raised several issues, I will answer them in order.

1) Although I am aware that Tristao, Tristao and Pratt and US Tower have offered tower raising fixtures for sale, I was not aware of a rental or loan policy. In my particular installation, use of both the tower raising fixture and on ground antenna installation was precluded by the fact that there is a 6 foot high cinderblock wall on the far side of the swimming pool over which the tower had to be laid before erecting. In order to have space on my property, a tower leg needed to be placed 6 inches from the outside wall of the house. With the tower laying across the pool and the base attached with the hinge bolts, the top of the tower in the full down position was 5 inches from the wall.

2) Just about all tower manufactures publish written statements discourage climbing towers to protect themselves from law suits. I agree with you that climbing should be avoided if possible, but it is not always possible.

3) I didn't hire a structural engineer by choice. Since the tower was constructed according to the 1975 UBC, the City of Buena Park, California required me to have the tower and footing specifications re-certified to the 1985 UBC. At the time I bought my tower, Tristao and Pratt were in financial trouble (I didn't know that when I place my order). As a result, Lou Tristao built my TX 438 tower from the lower two sections of a TX 455. I didn't argue with him at the time, since I got a tower with an 18 inch lower section and 15 1/2 inch upper section, rather then the 15 1/2 and 12 inch sections that the standard TX 438 specification called for. Effectively, I got what is now the TX 535 for the same price as a TX 435 (Tristao and Pratt did not make a heavy duty 38 foot tower at that time). When I moved to Buena Bark, the Department of Building and Safety was not impressed that the footing specification was for a 55 foot tower rather then the 38 foot tower I had and would not issue the permit without re-certification.

4) The rebar cage at the first location was wired. The contractor for my current location welded the cage. I was not even aware that you could weld a rebar cage until I saw it. He said it was more reliable. Frankly, I don't know. On the one hand, a properly made weld is as strong as the original material. Please understand that my welding expertise in that regard is confined to TIG welding of stainless steel and titanium. On the other hand, it also makes sense that wiring the rebar would allow some slight movement that might be beneficial.

5) I waited to put up the antenna because I had seen the same advice in QST in the 60's and had also heard similar stories from other hams over the years.

If you enjoyed my article, please vote in the QST cover award competition at http://www.arrl.org/members-only/qstvote.html?pidx=0. If you have trouble with that hyperlink, you will find a link on the members only page on the ARRL web site.

Sounds like you had a terrible time and place of installation. My condolences ! I have always tried to survey the place I am going to live to prevent problems such as you encountered. I have a 1 1/2 acre place here in Nevada with no restrictions, so along with my tower and beams for 10 thru 20 and a 40 meter mono-bander, I also have a Hy-tower vertical and a 256 foot horizontal loop. Great setup for DX or anything else. Great article too and glad your tower and beam work well for you. I guess some of us are lucky. By the way, my sister-in-law lives in Buena Park! I sure hope she was not the neighbor who complained.

I surveyed the area too, but in Southern California, even most million dollar homes don't have 1 1/2 acre lots. Most of the average homes in Orange County (the average price is $390,000), have only six feet on either side to the property line. I did write a clause in my offer to buy to allow me to cancel the deal if there were any CC&R's restricting antennas. Luckily, there were none.

I would love a Hy-tower for 40 and 80, but since my wife won't let me put one in the front yard, there is no place to put it! The longest antenna I can fit is an inverted-v on 40. I would like to convert my KT34A to a KT34XA, but it is too big. When I point my KT34A north to south, it is within my property line. At a 45 degree heading the elements overhang my neighbor's property. If I upgraded to an XA, I could not position it so that it would not overhang. This is not an issue with my current neighbor, but if he were to sell his house, I could be in a bad position. In the end, I think I have done all I can with the available space restrictions. I am, however, very open to suggestions!

I never found out for sure who complained because the city inspector said it was confidential. However, I think it was one of two people and they have both moved.

I have no suggestions but you do have my sympathy. I used to live in Lakewood Cal. and that city was very cooperative but that was a long time ago. I had both a 72-foot tower and a Hy-tower there with a tri band and a 40-meter beam. I have always tried to have stacked beams at my QTH. I do understand your plight as I have been there.

The best 2 cities in So. Ca. were Lakewood and Bellflower but who knows about now a days. The good times may be gone in Ca. I do realize that it is much more congested there than when I was a resident. I did have the lot size problems that you had. In Lakewood I had just enough room for the tower to tilt up and after clearing the rear fence I could install the mast and antenna's. My tower cleared the rear fence by 2 feet before it was tilted up. I was lucky.

-----Original Message-----
From: Conrad Nasatka [mailto:conco@paonline.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 1:13 PM
To: bart@wb6wuw.us
Subject:

----- Original Message -----

From: orthodoct

To: bart@teahouse.com

Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 9:31 PM

Subject: tower rerference material

Dear Bart:

Read your timely article in QST with great interest. I recently moved to an area with no antenna restrictions. As a result, I am erecting a tower. I am unfamiliar with the term "ground box" and quite frankly, am in need of additional reference material on the subject of installing a tower, proper grounding, etc. Are you aware of such a reference? Enjoyed your article greatly and look forward to your reply.

Vy 73 and congratulations on your publication!

Ty

KC4NWF

(Russell T. Garland, M.D.)

orthodoct@frontiernet.net

Hi Ty,

You are the second person to ask that question. "Ground rod box" is a descriptive term I dreamed up for lack of any better terminology. Since I needed to drive my ground rods in an area that would be within the boundaries of my pool deck extension, I framed a one-foot square around which the concrete was poured. This left a one-foot square area uncovered by concrete where I could drive my ground rods. On one side of the framed box, I ran a 1 inch diameter PVC pipe under the concrete to an area that would be clear of the pool deck. This conduit was used to run a drip irrigation hose to the ground rod box. The soil is kept damp by the drip hose to increase ground conductance. I chose a flow device that drips about one gallon of water an hour. I ran a second 2 inch diameter PVC pipe under the concrete from the other end of the box to act as a conduit for a number 00 welding cable to ground the tower.

If you want more detail then QST published in the edited for space article, please go to my website at www.wb6wuw.com and click on the picture of my tower at the top of the page. One of the reasons I wrote the article was because I could not find a similar article in my 30 year collection of QST Magazines. As far as grounding schemes, I would look at past issues of QST, 73 and the ARRL Handbook.

Basically, you need two grounds. First a station ground for your equipment. The ground rod should be as close to the equipment as possible. For high frequency, if the ground is too long it can act like an antenna and cause TVI. Since I positioned my ground rod near the wall opposite my rig, I was able to ground my station with a 4-foot ground strap. If you must run a long ground wire as I did when I lived in a second story apartment, you will need a choke in the ground wire. Since a long ground wire has resistance (all it takes is a few ohms), your rig will be at some point above ground. For high frequencies, the ground wire can radiate and cause TVI. A properly designed choke will attenuate the radiation.

The second ground is for the tower. Since we do not have lightning problems in costal Southern California, my tower is directly grounded through a 3-foot welding cable. Since, judging by your call sign you must consider lightning or high energy static discharges, you will need a lightning arrester. You will find allot of information on that subject in QST, 73 and the ARRL Handbook. You should use a common point ground (the same ground rod for both grounds) if physically possible. This will prevent the possibility of ground loops.

Thank you.

Bart, WB6WUW

Dear Bart:

Thank you for the very kind reply. I know that it took you a long time to compose that!! The information that you supplied is exactly what I need. I will click on the ARRL site tonight. You've got my vote! Wish I could vote more than once, but I'm not in Alabama or Mississippi. Shack will be on third floor of my house in the theater room. I used RFI isolators supplied by Radio Works coupled to a #1 AWG cable, 1" braid tying everything to a common point with multiple Alpha Delta lightning arrestors. I grounded every antenna when not in use.

I'll check your website. I ordered the ARRL Antenna book last night . Good luck, TNX, and hope to see you down the log!

Vy 73

KC4NWF

For more how to information about tower installation visit www.ko4bb.com.

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If you have photos of your tower installation project and would like to share them, please attach .jpg or .gif files with your e-mail. If you cannot convert your files to .jpg or .gif, send them anyway and I will convert them.

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Last updated December 7, 2003